tuvalu
October 2026
The world's least-visited and lowest country.
There's no real reason to go to Tuvalu. It's remote, expensive, and surrounded by other nations, such as Fiji, which have much more to offer.
Which is the reason to go.
It's different than most other places. The people here are unquestionably some of the friendliest anywhere, and take a real interest in visitors. The islands outside the city are absolutely stunning. The relentless rains, the blue ocean, and the lack of any truly dramatic scenery make this country a must for the determined traveler. There are many outer islands, but only reachable but irregular boats which stay only a few hours and may return only once a month, with no reliable schedule.
We spent a week here in October during an El Niño year - meaning constant storms and big ocean swells. We had planned to camp and spearfish on a deserted island, but the horrific weather meant we instead slept in downtown Funafuti and made day trips to surrounding islands. There are kids playing soccer everywhere. Lots of dogs, most friendly. Houses filled with junk.
Funafuti, despite having the nicest people anywhere, is overpopulated. Humans and their trash have filled this tiny strip of land edge to edge. There are stinky pig pens crammed next to houses. Crumbling shacks line the coast, mostly without a break. In 2022 the government started construction to expand the land area by dredging up sand to fill the lagoon side. It's crowded, flat, and hot. Don't come expecting a paradise town - it's not. Humans cut down the forests here, killed the birdlife, brought rats and other invasive species, so they can live in constant mud and spend their money on soda, vapes and... motorbikes.
Realistically, we expected locals to be walking and biking all over this small, flat island. Instead, noisy motorbikes zip around at all hours. It's like a mini-Vietnam at times! Almost nobody walks far, and several locals were shocked that we walked the entire 12-km length of Fongafale.
Honest feedback aside, we had a blast walking to Fotato Island at low tide, playing with local kids in the water at sunset, and meeting so many people on the streets for small talk.
On our last day, we finally heard back from a guy that knows a guy that has a cousin who knows a guy that has a brother that owns a boat that's working but can let his friend take us around the lagoon. Phew! We spent a day zipping down to Funafala village through 3-meter swells, snorkelling over a huge stingray in the southwest, and then a VERY rough, choppy ride up to Te Afualiku, an uninhabited island that serves as the atoll's main, and perhaps only, natural breeding ground for birdlife. We watched in horror as our boat driver picked brown noddy chicks out of their nests. We had a massive argument, and he then agreed to only steal three chicks. We motored back through high swells and strong winds at dusk, and never spoke to him again.
